I've tried the traditional 2-part mix, and the "SteelStik" putty --- both stay compliant and do not become hard at all. You can "sand" or "drill through it"? No.

I've used this before with good results but maybe I'm using it on the wrong kind of thing --- my busted, metal frame eyeglasses.

These frames have "spring-back" stems, so the hinge is completely on the main part of the frame and each stem "plugs into" them. The busted stem's springiness is gone, not that I care, but I'm trying to put a small daub of goop where the stem goes in. I suppose I'll try super glue next, but that stuff never seems to have any torsional strength. I'm not bonding teacup handles back on over here.

Got a prescription today, new eyeglasses en route but I'm looking for a temporary fix to get me through the week, no matter how ugly.

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deckeda
I'm looking for a temporary fix to get me through the week, no matter how ugly.

Affix the stem as best you can then dip the whole hinge-area in 5-minute setting Epoxy.

Let it harden overnight.

Should work great and be very ugly.

It covers the entire hinge now. Did this about 4 hours ago. Still not hard, so probably won't ever be. It'll sit overnight, but I'll rip it apart and try the epoxy tomorrow.





Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/03/2012 12:40AM by deckeda.

Run a wire down the length of it. Wrap it with solid phone/ethernet wire and solder the joint.

That will make it look real ugly.

Yes! I was thinking of a splint! Hopefully the solder gun wouldn't transmit too much heat to the lens and melt it, or to the ear-end of the stem and melt that plastic.

After I get my new speks perhaps this could become the new forum "mini" --- the eyeglasses get mailed to various forum members and each one attempts to reattach the stem in creative ways.

OK, I'm done tonight.

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deckeda
Yes! I was thinking of a splint! Hopefully the solder gun wouldn't transmit too much heat to the lens and melt it,

Wow! How many (mega)watts is your iron?

J-B weld takes about 24 hours to fully cure, even the quick J-B weld is easily overnight.

I almost never get JB Weld or Super Glue to work.

On something like eyeglass frames, a 25-40 watt iron and silver solder should be good. Unscrew the pivot and take the lens out first.

Just slip some shrink wrap over it, apply mild heat and your good.

Oh, don't forget to wrap electrical tape around the bridge for the full geek effect.

---

You can tell a lot about a woman by her hands...
- For example, if they are wrapped around your throat she's probably slightly upset.

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Ombligo
Just slip some shrink wrap over it, apply mild heat and your good.

Oh, don't forget to wrap electrical tape around the bridge for the full geek effect.

That would be a white Band-Aid or white adhesive tape to get the full effect.

I would let someone familiar with eyeglass repair fix it. Soldering is the preferred method - but it's tricky. Too much heat will ruin the glasses.

---

Athens, OH

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Carm
Run a wire down the length of it. Wrap it with solid phone/ethernet wire and solder the joint.

That will make it look real ugly.

I agree. Straighten a large paper clip, cut off the lengths (2 you need, and tape them in place, as you would a splint. Adhesive tape, duct tape, scotch tape - your choice. Ugly but useful.

---

Mr. Curmudgeon, on Mountain Lion.

I guess I am not the only one with an adhesive that wouldn't set up.

---

Alpharetta, GA (Atlanta suburb)

STOP THE PRESSES!

Wife found the backup eyeglasses not thought to exist! I'm sportin' that mid-90s look all over again.

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Racer X
J-B weld takes about 24 hours to fully cure, even the quick J-B weld is easily overnight.

Still putty this morning. The 2-part mix I used a couple days earlier in the first attempt is still soft on the aluminum foil where I mixed it. And it's a thin layer. I cold swear I thought this stuff was to become rock-hard?

I KNOW I once used it years ago on a Q-Jet to reattach the small outer vertical wall that holds the pin for the accelerator pump lever. I'd snapped it off somehow and J-B Weld secured it back on. Lasted until I got a Holley 4-pot throttle body EFI and subsequent $900 hole in my pocket. (Except for cold starting, the old Q-Jet of course ran just as well, or better.)

Sounds like you either got a bad batch, it was too old, or you did not mix it enough. It should definitely cure hard, if it is still putty like after two days, that does not sound right.

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JoeH
Sounds like you either got a bad batch, it was too old, or you did not mix it enough. It should definitely cure hard, if it is still putty like after two days, that does not sound right.

See my caulk thread below.

---

Alpharetta, GA (Atlanta suburb)

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modelamac

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Carm
Run a wire down the length of it. Wrap it with solid phone/ethernet wire and solder the joint.

That will make it look real ugly.

I agree. Straighten a large paper clip, cut off the lengths (2 you need, and tape them in place, as you would a splint. Adhesive tape, duct tape, scotch tape - your choice. Ugly but useful.

I would use traditional dental floss or upholsterer's thread and wrap it very, very tight. In nautical terms this is called "whipping" and when you have metal in there it can be quite strong.

It should be hard as a rock. Something isn't working right. I got some on the garage floor that I can't get off even after hitting it with a hammer. The concrete is easier to break.

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C(-)ris

"Something isn't working right"

Exactly. I successfully repaired the engine block of a snowmobile with it.

I know some Buick Stage 2 prototype heads repaired with J-B weld. Was supposed to be a temporary fix back in 1993 to get it ready for a national race. Still holding up.