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ataching wood to brick - fastening strategy
Posted by: mrbigstuff
Date: August 25, 2008 09:46AM
I'm rebuilding a door frame to my basement that is a source of much leaking, unwanted air and some water (at the threshold). the door is in a former bulkhead and is in fine condition but the frame around it has become detached from the brick. I also have to repoint the brick with new grout before reattaching the frame to the side. My question is what should I use between the wood (PT) and the brick? I would normally use Tapcons to fasten the wood to concrete, are there similar fasteners specifically for brick?
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Re: ataching wood to brick - fastening strategy
Posted by: freescotland
Date: August 25, 2008 10:06AM
I would use masonry screws, in fact have used them over the years to attach wood to brick. Just be careful to sink them into the brick and not the mortar.
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Re: ataching wood to brick - fastening strategy
Posted by: cbelt3
Date: August 25, 2008 10:24AM
And lots of good glue, as well.
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Re: ataching wood to brick - fastening strategy
Posted by: lafinfil
Date: August 25, 2008 10:30AM
Brick can be tricky depending on how hard it is. I like Tapcons too but they can wreck soft brick
so I would test first to be safe and don't get too close to the edge. A little construction adhesive
designed for brick & wood will help as well as act as a caulking although you'll still need to
caulk the exterior where it meets.

Since you are framing this new you can also frame it kind of reverse from normal
Put the sides in first and then cut the top and sill to fit tight and act as a wedge.

One thing I would change is the use of pressure treated lumber for the frame (except the sill)
I would probably use some good dry lumber like a kiln dried Doug Fir or similar because
it is already dry and will not warp and twist as it dries like treated lumber.

if you seal it well on all sides and cut ends before installing it will be less trouble in the long run
then trying to deal with an ill fitting door down the line. For a couple extra bucks I would probably
get a nice piece of cedar or white oak for the sill. It will make a better frame for a couple extra bucks.

Now if this was just a door for a shed or something I'd use treated.



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Re: ataching wood to brick - fastening strategy
Posted by: mrbigstuff
Date: August 25, 2008 10:52AM
'fil, I can't use any wood for the sill/threshold as it is on wet ground. this is my basement entrance and I'm trying my best to seal it all up against air and definitely against water infiltration. the problem area that I identified upon inspections was that the sill was allowing water infiltration on one side and it needs to be poured again.

the other issue that I did not mention is that the wall to which I will screw the board is not plumb. so, I'm stuck with having to repoint the brick, make as plumb as possible, and then fill in the gap with some insulation and run some sort of hiding trim along the edge.

oh, and I need to use the PT lumber as I can't afford to buy new stock just for this (see shed threads)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2008 10:53AM by mrbigstuff.
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Re: ataching wood to brick - fastening strategy
Posted by: lafinfil
Date: August 25, 2008 12:46PM
>
>I can't use any wood for the sill/threshold as it is on wet ground
>

Is there masonry there now ?

Maybe use an aluminum threshold ?



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Re: ataching wood to brick - fastening strategy
Posted by: mrbigstuff
Date: August 25, 2008 01:49PM
I could do, but I'm tempted just to pour a new cement sill or just repair the existing. my real conundrum is the uneven brick wall and fixing the frame to it.

the goal I had was to use something that would "mold" to the variegated brickwork and bond to the door and then fasten all that together. any memory foam stuff out there...?
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Re: ataching wood to brick - fastening strategy
Posted by: lafinfil
Date: August 25, 2008 02:24PM
How far out of plumb is it from top to bottom ?

I'd be tempted to transfer the profile of the brick with a scribe and try to fit it but that may not be practical.

Second best would to shim the jamb plumb to the brick, I've been using those new composite shims
that are made out of recycled plastic. Very stable , especially in wet areas and they don't compress or split.

If you did that with the sides of the jamb you could scribe face pieces (brick mold) to meet the brick
and tand back fill with foam insulation.



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