Posts: 26,407
Threads: 741
Joined: May 2025
Reputation:
0
deckeda wrote: Right, right. I wasn't going to mess with it myself until I was prepared for the worst, regardless of who did the work. But I have a question, if you yank the anode and it's say, partially eaten (which I would expect?) wouldn't you just replace it anyway?
Yes, you're going to replace the anode anyway. However, if the old anode is completely gone, then you know that corrosion will have started attacking the tank and may want to go ahead and replace the tank at that point. If there is still material left on the anode, then the tank won't have been corroded because corrosion eats up the anode before it starts on the tank. Looking at the anode is a diagnostic tool to tell you whether the tank is OK or not.
Posts: 26,407
Threads: 741
Joined: May 2025
Reputation:
0
Black wrote: I don't get the "just get a plumber out" thing-- not that easy for working people to schedule visits like this, and what is that-- $100 for a visit just for someone to tell you it's not worth replacing?
I'd tell the plumber to be prepared to replace the water heater if things were bad. The schedule problem is going to be there no matter what you do. That way you wouldn't be wasting a visit. If you're going to spend $400+ on a new water heater and probably $200+ on installation then it makes a lot more sense to start the plumber in by seeing if a replacement is necessary or not. If the tank isn't bad why on earth would you want to spend all of that money on a new water heater when an anode and drain valve is all you need?
Posts: 21,859
Threads: 1,734
Joined: May 2025
Reputation:
0
Another question on this topic... if leaking from the plastic drain valve is common, then I'm not so worried about it. If the tank is leaking elsewhere, then there should be water in the bottom of the tank, around the pilot light, right? Light has probably been out for 12+ hrs.
I might try to relight it if just to use for the next day.
Posts: 32,462
Threads: 3,127
Joined: Apr 2025
Reputation:
0
M A V I C wrote:
... If the tank is leaking elsewhere, then there should be water in the bottom of the tank ...
I'm not so sure. Remember, when we look at a water heater what we see isn't the water's tank, it's a metal wrapper around the tank proper --- there's insulation, maybe some wiring or other parts sandwiched between. Once the tank leaks, the water could form around other stuff if partially trapped, prior to hitting the floor.
M A V I C wrote: ... around the pilot light, right? ...
Sure.
Posts: 21,859
Threads: 1,734
Joined: May 2025
Reputation:
0
Well, what I'm thinking is that if it's leaking around the pilot light enough to put it out, then there should be water there now.
Posts: 32,462
Threads: 3,127
Joined: Apr 2025
Reputation:
0
Oh, I see what you mean. But I think the trigger for us here was when you said there was rust forming around that area when recently, there was none. The lack of water on the ground I can't explain except to speculate perhaps it's evaporating. Bottom line is, if you can get someone out to look at it they'll determine why the rust/why the pilot getting snuffed.
Posts: 50,838
Threads: 670
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 21,859
Threads: 1,734
Joined: May 2025
Reputation:
0
Well, going a day without hot water during the snowstorm didn't sound that pleasant for the wife and kid. So I probably shouldn't have, but I moved the dryer and climbed back by it. It doesn't look that bad up close. The discoloration on the side isn't very much. I peeked inside the pilot light area and, yeah, it's rust colored but it looks pretty much like what iron looks like, not like water has been in there.
A few more drops have come out of the drain valve, but that sounds normal.
So I relit the light and turned it on.
Turns out a friend of ours who does remodeling also installs a half dozen gas water heaters a year so he know them fairly well. He can also get them at a discount. He's going to install one tomorrow. I'll probably ask him about the anode later today. Maybe we'll just get a good quality (possibly dual anode) model now, and repair them in the future as needed.
Posts: 18,585
Threads: 3,277
Joined: May 2025
Reputation:
0
>Turns out a friend of ours who does remodeling also installs a half dozen gas water heaters a year so he know them fairly well. He can also get them at a discount. He's going to install one tomorrow. I'll probably ask him about the anode later today. Maybe we'll just get a good quality (possibly dual anode) model now, and repair them in the future as needed.
If there are just the two of you in the household I would urge you to seriously consider the tankless type. They may be more expensive but in the long run you'll save money. Takes up a lot less room too.
Posts: 3,805
Threads: 32
Joined: May 2025
Reputation:
0
When you replace the heater, which is what I think you should do given the age of your existing tank vs its warranty, also buy two replacement thermocouples and tape them to the tank. Thermocouples are the weak link in the system, they're easy to replace, and they cost less than ten bucks. Also get the part number for a replacement anode and write that, and the appropriate date to replace the anode, in Sharpie on the side of the tank. Consider buying the anode as a ready-service spare too.
I also have not seen a compelling reason to go with a tankless system except possibly in a second home for a large family that has only occasional use for large quantities of hot water. Big outlay up front, long slow cost savings, longer wait for first burst of hot water...no thanks.
|
