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I think I need an air filter for my bedroom - any real world experiences?
#1
After a couple weeks of tile cutting and installation, my house is dust from one end to another. I'm having respiratory issues. The floor and walls have been scrubbed and I'm using microfiber dusting clothes to clean up as things get unpacked and replaced, but the dust remains pervasive. I wonder if a room air tilter, for the bedroom anyway, might help? Anyone gone through something like this and found that to be a benefit even if not a complete solution? Or should I just keep cleaning? I guess the next step is to replace the one remaining carpet or get the carpet cleaners in.
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#2
Unless you live in someplace incredibly dusty, the best is probably to leave the windows open most of the day for a few days. That is by far the best way to get fresh air in and the dust out.

When we moved into a new house we got rid of a lot of cement dust using a bagless cleaner. (a dyson in fact ut I don't thing that really matters). First we rented a big commercial wet and dry vacuum - it was pretty much useless compared to the dyson. The dyson was almost able to "stick" itself to the ground with the suction power.
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#3
That kind of dust is pervasive and will take a lot of cleaning. Room air cleaners will help but you'll have to vacuum them often. House filters will have to be vacuumed or changed often too. Wet cloth dusting will probably work better than dry dusting too. Don't forget to wash up the bedding too. That stuff will settle everywhere.
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#4
[quote simonm]Unless you live in someplace incredibly dusty, the best is probably to leave the windows open most of the day for a few days. That is by far the best way to get fresh air in and the dust out.

When we moved into a new house we got rid of a lot of cement dust using a bagless cleaner. (a dyson in fact ut I don't thing that really matters). First we rented a big commercial wet and dry vacuum - it was pretty much useless compared to the dyson. The dyson was almost able to "stick" itself to the ground with the suction power.
South Florida - opening windows is pretty much out of the question for the next few months. You're right about the shop vacs - just picks the dust off the floor and puts it in the air again.
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#5
There are HEPA filters or drywall dust filters for many shop vac's - worth the extra money

Check to see if one is available for yours


When I'm doing a project that creates a lot of dust I use one of these



http://www.shopvacoutlet.com/?gclid=CIi7...agodWAYMtw

I also run it in the studio & shop when I am cleaning (broom or shop vac)
It filters the airborne particles - not HEPA level but it get the big chunks.

It's not meant to rull all the time (too noisy - sounds like a quiet vac) but is fine while
working for a few hours at a time.
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#6
Get a 20" Box fan, $12, and just put a 20x20" pleated filter, $5-15, on the backside. Twenty some
dollars tops for the whole thing. You get your air filtered and cooled down at the same time.
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#7
Besides doing what everybody else said, if you have central air, make sure that you put a hepa filter in that and that it is sealed tight to the sides of the filter box, otherwise you'll just continue to stir up the dust that has now spread itself throughout the ductwork. For a little while, you should probably get some pieces of filter fabric on each of the outlets too to catch the bulk of what's in the ductwork.

As someone above noted, by far the best way to get rid of construction dust is prevention. It's a lot easier to stop or contain it while it's being created than to get rid of it later. You can pay a little extra to have sheetrock guys wet sand, and can buy kits at the hardware store to isolate certain rooms (and never run the central heat/ac while dust creation is going on).
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#8
ahhhh, Grateful11 beat me to it.

TIP: when using a w/d vac to eliminate dust, put and inch or two of clean water in the tank before each use. The water will capture much of the particulate matter. It really works well.

Don't waste money on a "HEPA" filter to use in a non-certified {NIST} HEPA vac.
The vac motor itself is exhausting carbon dust into the air every time you turn it on.
A 'real' HEPA or ULPA dry vac will cost $400-$700 ie: http://www.kenteuroclean.com/Products/Ca...930SP.aspx
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#9
OK... now that I went back to read --- Grateful did get it.

I've been doing it for 4 years+ now. Leave it on 24/7. Sometimes low when not at home, always on mid or high when home.

Turns 'em dark gray in a month or so - depends on pets, etc.
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#10
respirator and open the windows this Fall when it gets ah, windy.
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