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PVC question
Posted by: Black
Date: December 20, 2015 02:29AM
[www.homedepot.com]

"Schedule 40"- would that be considered "thick walled?" What would "thin walled" be? Would the outer dimension be the same, i.e. would this cap fit either?
[www.homedepot.com]

Listing says they can't be used with sched 40 but I'm wondering if it is a strength/regulatory requirement rather than that they don't fit.
I'm building nest tubes for my Chickadees as per these instructions:
[desireelnarango.weebly.com]
Thx.
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: flareslow
Date: December 20, 2015 06:15AM
"Schedule 40" Is for pressurized water. "DWV" is the thin-wall type you are looking for. It's used for toilet and gray-water drains and vents. The O.D.'s are the same. The I.D.'s change. The cap should fit.

FWIW, there is also a "Schedule 40" steel pipe.

Mike
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: flareslow
Date: December 20, 2015 06:28AM
Whoa, I take it back.

See the link:
DWV or S&D Dimensions

and,

Sched 40 PVC Dimensions

I apologize for any confusion.

Mike
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: MrNoBody
Date: December 20, 2015 06:43AM
Schedule 40 is thin wall for non or low pressure cold piping.

CPVC Pipe is the thicker wall used for pressurized lines, like home cold & hot water supply.

Fittings are not interchangeable due to differences in the OD of the pipe.



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Re: PVC question
Posted by: flareslow
Date: December 20, 2015 06:51AM
What I called "DWV' should really be called "Sewer and Drain", i.e. pipe that is meant to be buried. The Home Depot description included DWV in the Sched 40 description and these are pipes that have different support requirements.

The thin wall pipe in your feeder plans would be the S&D pipe.
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: DP
Date: December 20, 2015 07:14AM
We expect pix when you're done!





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Re: PVC question
Posted by: billb
Date: December 20, 2015 07:51AM
Why PVC ?

Honda, Toyota and Nissan have removed all PVC products from the interiors of cars because of concerns with phthalate outgassing concentrates in a closed system and health and cancer issues and you want baby birds in the most formative week of their life to be trapped in an even smaller environ ?
When there are greener and safer materials widely available ?



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Re: PVC question
Posted by: sekker
Date: December 20, 2015 08:11AM
Fun project!
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: Black
Date: December 20, 2015 08:35AM
Thanks. Unfortunately I forgot about the thin/thick wall thing and bought two lengths of thick at my local hardware store (was walking by yesterday) but they had no caps. Caps for thick= $20 instead of $8.
Any ideas for a cheaper way to close off at least one of the ends? (doesn't need to be removable but should have drain holes as per the plans.)
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: rgG
Date: December 20, 2015 08:44AM
Quote
Black
Thanks. Unfortunately I forgot about the thin/thick wall thing and bought two lengths of thick at my local hardware store (was walking by yesterday) but they had no caps. Caps for thick= $20 instead of $8.
Any ideas for a cheaper way to close off at least one of the ends? (doesn't need to be removable but should have drain holes as per the plans.)

Could you just put a piece of styrofoam in and put holes in the styrofoam as needed. And old piece of packing material should get you a piece of styrofoam you can cut to size then stuff in the end. As far as how to secure it, well, you could drill a small hole on each side of the tube then run a small skewer/dowel through one side, through the styrofoam, then out the other side. This would make it secure and easily removable, too. Be sure to get the holes in the tube lined up across from each other.

Edit: you could also do this for the top then use the ends of the dowel as the hanging points to attach the wire to hang it from.

You could also use a piece of thin round metal rather than wood, for strength, at the top. I have some thin metal rods that are used to hold insulation batts in place that would work perfectly.

Edit 2: if you wanted it even stronger, drill four holes, and use two skewers/rods.





Roswell, GA (Atlanta suburb)



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 12/20/2015 08:49AM by rgG.
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: Mike Johnson
Date: December 20, 2015 08:54AM
No, I don’t think it will fit, sorry. I ran into these problems when I was making a fog chiller for my smoke machine. I suspect that cap is for pipe with a much thinner wall than Schedule 40, and a different outside diameter. See for example this adapter: [www.homedepot.com]

To clear a couple things up, Schedule 40 PVC is considered standard wall thickness, and in smaller sizes it’s appropriate for typical residential water pressure. As diameter increases its PSI rating drops; 3/4” Schedule 40 is rated for 480 psi; 4” Schedule 40 is rated for only 220 psi.

Schedule 80 is considered extra-thick, usually gray in color, and is intended for higher water pressure.

Neither is appropriate for carrying hot water. Any place where water might reach over 140° you’d have to use CPVC or copper or whatever.

PVC at sizes like 1 1/2”, 2”, 3”, 4”, 6” are usually rated as compliant with both pressure pipe and DWV specifications. DWV is not the same as Drain & Sewer. 4” Schedule 40 has an outside diameter of 4.5”; 4” Drain and Sewer pipe has an outside diameter of 4.215”.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/20/2015 08:55AM by Mike Johnson.
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: rgG
Date: December 20, 2015 09:11AM
I also just thought of another way to anchor the styrofoam, just run some long drywall screws through the PVC into the styrofoam. It will anchor the styrofoam and then you can remove the screws if you need to take the styrofoam out. At the top, you can leave the heads of the screws sticking out a little and attach the hanging wires to them.





Roswell, GA (Atlanta suburb)
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: artie67
Date: December 20, 2015 02:16PM
Mike Johnson's Home Depot link shows the cap at the bottom of the page for sewer 4" pipe. Here is the link for the pipe.
[www.homedepot.com]
You could tape the bottom cap on for later cleaning. The upper cap can be installed and drilled, then remove and cut out the material below the hole to enable the cap to slide over the hanging cord or wire.
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: space-time
Date: December 20, 2015 02:44PM
you have to make sure the birds are comfy
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: Black
Date: December 20, 2015 03:25PM
Quote
rgG
I also just thought of another way to anchor the styrofoam, just run some long drywall screws through the PVC into the styrofoam. It will anchor the styrofoam and then you can remove the screws if you need to take the styrofoam out. At the top, you can leave the heads of the screws sticking out a little and attach the hanging wires to them.

Thanks, but everything I've read suggests that Chickadees would burrow down into the styrofoam.
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: Black
Date: December 20, 2015 03:26PM
Quote
artie67
Mike Johnson's Home Depot link shows the cap at the bottom of the page for sewer 4" pipe. Here is the link for the pipe.
[www.homedepot.com]
You could tape the bottom cap on for later cleaning. The upper cap can be installed and drilled, then remove and cut out the material below the hole to enable the cap to slide over the hanging cord or wire.

I don't know if you've followed this discussion but it does seem like I may have to start over with different pipe.
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: rgG
Date: December 20, 2015 03:58PM
Quote
Black
Quote
rgG
I also just thought of another way to anchor the styrofoam, just run some long drywall screws through the PVC into the styrofoam. It will anchor the styrofoam and then you can remove the screws if you need to take the styrofoam out. At the top, you can leave the heads of the screws sticking out a little and attach the hanging wires to them.

Thanks, but everything I've read suggests that Chickadees would burrow down into the styrofoam.

Easily solved. Just cut a piece of plastic from a lid of some sort, and glue that to the top of the styrofoam so that they can't burrow into it. ;)





Roswell, GA (Atlanta suburb)
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: Racer X
Date: December 20, 2015 08:59PM
I think I was the first to read the post last night. I feel I should get some sort of recognition because I did NOT make a Black/PVC clothing joke.
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: Black
Date: December 20, 2015 10:20PM
Quote
rgG
Quote
Black
Quote
rgG
I also just thought of another way to anchor the styrofoam, just run some long drywall screws through the PVC into the styrofoam. It will anchor the styrofoam and then you can remove the screws if you need to take the styrofoam out. At the top, you can leave the heads of the screws sticking out a little and attach the hanging wires to them.

Thanks, but everything I've read suggests that Chickadees would burrow down into the styrofoam.

Easily solved. Just cut a piece of plastic from a lid of some sort, and glue that to the top of the styrofoam so that they can't burrow into it. ;)

Allright, you've convinced me to give it a go with what's on hand. I have a tenant who created a woodworking shop in his basement I can enlist help from-- barely any space for any sort of handyworking in my own place. Thinking whatever hardwood is on hand. Doesn't really need to be an airtight seal, at the bottom at least.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/20/2015 10:24PM by Black.
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: Black
Date: December 20, 2015 10:22PM
One more if anyone's still following-- do y'all think the thick PVC I have might be made to fit the $2 cap with some sanding/filing/turning? Or is it a complete no-go?
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: Racer X
Date: December 20, 2015 11:07PM
Well, to be honest, if the cut end of the pipe is straight and perp. to the pipe, maybe flip the cap over, and glue it to the pipe? Does that make sense? It's not like the birds are heavy.

It's an interesting project. We plan on making bat boxes, and some homes for Mason bees for our yard. These DIY projects can be fun, and a great mental exercise in what are we actually trying to do? It's not a plumbing issue, its how can I make this stuff into a structurally sound home for small birds?

I try and teach my step-kids to look at problems this way.
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Re: PVC question
Posted by: rgG
Date: December 21, 2015 07:52AM
Quote
Black
Quote
rgG
Quote
Black
Quote
rgG
I also just thought of another way to anchor the styrofoam, just run some long drywall screws through the PVC into the styrofoam. It will anchor the styrofoam and then you can remove the screws if you need to take the styrofoam out. At the top, you can leave the heads of the screws sticking out a little and attach the hanging wires to them.

Thanks, but everything I've read suggests that Chickadees would burrow down into the styrofoam.

Easily solved. Just cut a piece of plastic from a lid of some sort, and glue that to the top of the styrofoam so that they can't burrow into it. ;)

Allright, you've convinced me to give it a go with what's on hand. I have a tenant who created a woodworking shop in his basement I can enlist help from-- barely any space for any sort of handyworking in my own place. Thinking whatever hardwood is on hand. Doesn't really need to be an airtight seal, at the bottom at least.

Yeah, if you can cut a piece of wood, or something else, that would work just as well. I was trying to think of something that could be easily cut with a knife. There are a lot of things you could use. Go for it, be creative. You don't need no stinking cap. lol.





Roswell, GA (Atlanta suburb)
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