I want to put in a 50amp/120v RV outlet (but will settle for 30amp) to power a travel trailer in the yard. I know they make adapters to go from standard 120v outlets to RV plugs, but I would prefer to have something that does not involve multiple cords. Plus the breaker to the outside outlets is only 20amp.

We currently have an unused 240v/40amp breaker in our box. Can that be adapted to get what I desire (and yes, I'm calling an electrician, but just wanted an idea about practicality first)

and thanks in advance

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“No persons are more frequently wrong, than those who will not admit they are wrong.”
-- François de La Rochefoucauld

Growing older is mandatory. Growing up is optional.

According to this diagram, you need 30A dual circuit breaker on each 'hot line'
to supply a 14-50R receptacle...

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39°36'17"N 75°44'43"W

The search engine that doesn't track you.

Also, let the electrician know how far from the eventual outlet you’ll be running an extension cord. Does the local H-D/Lowe’s carry an extension that’ll carry 50A for the length needed, with whatever that plug type is?

Quote
MrNoBody
According to this diagram, you need 30A dual circuit breaker on each 'hot line'
to supply a 14-50R receptacle...

The 30A plug shown in this diagram is 240v, and shouldn't be used for an RV - it will fry everything in the RV. RVs that use 30a are 120v, typically using only one of the hot legs on the 240v/50a circuit. With the 30a/120v RV circuit you'll only have a single breaker.

The 30A plug shown in this diagram is 240v...
Correct, but that is the feed into the RV panel, hence TWO 120v lines coming out of
the 14-50R on the left. RV gets 2x 120v/30A, each on its own dual breaker.
The L6-30R on the right is the source (supply) coming from the building.
Three lines; one common ground (G), 120v (X), and 120v (Y).
Sorry if the diagram wasn't clear enough.

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39°36'17"N 75°44'43"W

The search engine that doesn't track you.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/13/2020 07:37PM by MrNoBody.

If the breaker you have available is ONLY 20A, then to get a “standard” RV pedestal working, additional wires MUST be run. How far that run will be will determine the gauge of wire that will be needed to safely power your RV. MANY regular electricians do NOT understand the requirements of RV pedestals and will mis-wire the pedestal as if was going to be used as a welding station. Mike Sokol is the guy you want to read for anything re RV electric. Mike’s book, “No Shock Zone” will explain in detail just what needs to happen.

To find an electrician I plan to ask several local campgrounds for recommendations. I know better than just get Joe Electrician to do this job. This job is way beyond me.

I really just need to know if what I want (120v/50amp or 120v/30amp) can be accomplished with what I have (240v/40amp).

Distance from breaker panel to outlet location = ~50ft

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“No persons are more frequently wrong, than those who will not admit they are wrong.”
-- François de La Rochefoucauld

Growing older is mandatory. Growing up is optional.

You can get what you want. Modern stuff is 3 phase, giving you voltage and amperage options easily for what you want. And any electrician can do this; he’d just need you to clarify what type of camper plug you have.

Ombligo,

Yes, you can use that spare 240V circuit. You will need to replace the 40 amp circuit breaker with a 60 amp or higher rating. The existing 240V/40 amp has 20 amp rating on each 120V leg. Using it as is and connecting just one 120V leg will result in constant resetting of the breaker or very limited load in the RV.

I'd let the electrician do the whole job, and have him include a set up for charging an EV. That way you get an extra selling point when you want to sell. He won't have to include the actual EV receptacle, but just a box with a blank cover, but wired to the RV box. That means he will probably run 240V to the RV outlet box.

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Ed (modelamac)

I think I will just put an OUT OF ORDER
sticker on my head and call it a day.