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Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: C(-)ris
Date: November 16, 2020 11:11PM
Been wrenching on my wife's car for the last couple days. Was making clicking noises turning, a grinding noise from the rear and had a CEL on. Decided I needed a new tool and picked up this awesome deal at Home Depot: [www.homedepot.com]

Have to justify new tools somehow, and saving on labor at a shop is a great way to do it.

CEL showed a half a dozen codes. Two for left and right variable valve lifter malfunctions. A quick Google showed that the only way you get two of them is if you run it low on oil. Wonderful. Another set of codes for O2 sensor voltage low and O2 heater failure. Sounds like a bad O2 sensor. Changed the oil and replaced the O2 sensor, cleared the codes and took it for a long drive. No codes came back so I think we are good there. Still very noisy. All the noises as my daughter said.

Put the vehicle up in the air and spun the rear wheels and it was grind city. Ditto on the fronts. Pulled off the wheels and the rotors and pads are gouged up despite the pads having plenty of material left. Rusty chunks all over the place from the rotors. Garbage, need to be replaced.

Took a look under and immediately found a completely destroyed passenger side CV boot. That takes care of diagnosing our clicking noise turning. Ordered pads and rotors all the way around as well as both CV shafts. Might as well match them up, especially since I went aftermarket and sometimes it causes balance issues/vibrations when you mix and match them.

Had my little helper do the rear brakes with me, went super smooth. Out with the old in with the new. Didn't even learn a new swear word. Unfortunately had to listen to Kidzbop for 2 hours. Totally worth it, now she knows how to do brakes, she did an entire side by herself except for breaking loose the bolts with some instruction. Hopefully she will keep learning and won't be the person sitting in the mechanics shop getting their blinker fluid changed and muffler bearings done.

I Started on the drivers side and as soon as I pulled off the wheel I was greeted with a mound of rust where the CV shaft hub nut should have been.


Soaked everything on that side with Liquid wrench and moved over to the passenger side. Much better over there. Used the new impact gun to remove most of the bolts. Got the CV shaft out and new one installed in no time. Cleaned everything off, torqued everything to spec, and then wiped down everything again.

Back over to the drivers side. Gave everything another coat of liquid wrench and started working on the brakes. Got the caliper off and hung it from the strut with a cable tie. Grabbed a 1/2" ratchet to take off the caliper bracket bolt and no movement. Tried the new impact and nothin. Out comes the breaker bar. Still won't move. Another round of liquid wrench and I went in for lunch. Came back 2 hours later and tried again. No dice. Moved on to the breaker bar plus 3' section of pipe. That worked exceedingly well at snapping the bolt head off. Oh well. Tried my socket style bolt extractor over the bolt and could not get it out of the bracket. Fine. Cut it off flush with the bracket and drilled a hole for the Easy Out. No dice. Thew the easy out in a vice and used the bracket for leverage instead. Broke the easy out off in the bolt. Learned some new swear words on that one. Ordered a new caliper bracket, delivery the next day.

On to the CV shaft nut. Cleaned it out and nothing even resembling a nut was left. Tried the correct socket and it was completely loose. Tried 2 sizes down and pounded it onto what was left of the nut and gave it a shot with the impact. Stripped right out and spun. Now it just looked like a cone. Crap. Tried using the air hammer to cut through the nut and it wouldn't budge. Used the dremel and tried to cut a slot with the carbide cutter to knock the nut off. No dice, hardened steel and it didn't want to cut.

Decided to pull the entire steering knuckle out of the car to work on it on the bench instead of sitting on the ground. Was able to get the steering knuckle with the drive axle attached out and onto the bench. Tried more cutting, grinding, hammering, and had zero luck. Thought about it for a while and decided I might need an unconventional approach. I drilled out the center of the CV shaft(hardened steel) with a tungsten carbide bit. Measured the bolt I had out and 1" was right at the threads. Then took a 1" cobalt Hole saw and proceeded to cut through the nut. 10 minutes later and what was left of the nut was off and the shaft was free. Not so sure I'm getting my core deposit back on that axle shaft.



Came back the next morning and installed the new CV shaft and put the steering knuckle back on. Noticed that the headers had melted the boot on the power steering rack. Arrrgggg. Also noticed a small hole in the ball joint boot that must have happened when it was seperated. Double arrrrrggg. Will deal with those tomorrow. Put the rest of the car back together and took it for a drive. No more clicking, no more grinding, and the car stops on a dime.

Sadly, now that the car is quiet I noticed it has a whine when decelerating. That is either going to be a wheel bearing or something transmission, transfer case, or differential related. Is that a triple arrgggg for tomorrow?

If you made it this far... This is what I get for replacing my car with a new to me truck. Moral of the story, let your wife get the new car.



C(-)ris
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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/16/2020 11:14PM by C(-)ris.
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: jdc
Date: November 16, 2020 11:15PM
clicking noise turning

CV joint 100 times out of 100 times. Dont even need to look.

we always repacked the bearings during the break job, standard, unless they looked really good.



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Edited 999 time(s). Last edit at 12:08PM by jdc.
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: mattkime
Date: November 16, 2020 11:58PM
You're being coy about the make and model of the car.



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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: C(-)ris
Date: November 17, 2020 12:16AM
Quote
mattkime
You're being coy about the make and model of the car.

It was about the experience, not the car smiling smiley

But it is an ‘06 Subaru Impreza sedan that has lived its entire life in MN and WI.



C(-)ris
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: mattkime
Date: November 17, 2020 12:24AM
Dear god that impact wrench makes a lot of torque
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: Filliam H. Muffman
Date: November 17, 2020 01:10AM




In tha 360. MRF User Map
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: Speedy
Date: November 17, 2020 04:03AM
Whew! Good luck with the whine. Maybe live with it until it narrows itself down.



Saint Cloud, Minnesota, where the weather is wonderful even when it isn't.
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: Michael
Date: November 17, 2020 04:37AM
Life up north with salt on the roads!
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: mrbigstuff
Date: November 17, 2020 05:49AM
I know from rust. It really sucks. But what sucked more is getting the cv shaft boot all munched up and then not being able to extract it from the transmission. For days. And then having to get it flatbedded to the mechanic who could also not get it off ( but replaced the boot). To the tune of about $600.
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: C(-)ris
Date: November 17, 2020 08:23AM
Quote
Speedy
Whew! Good luck with the whine. Maybe live with it until it narrows itself down.

I have to take it in fo an alignment. Sadly no vehicle lift or alignment rack in my garage. Going to have them see if they can figure out what it is. I'm hopeful, but not optimistic that it is the passenger rear wheel bearing. It whines considerably louder when you let off the gas and coast in the 20-40mph range. Turning left or right makes no difference but it goes away as soon as you get on the gas. If it isn't a wheel bearing it will likely be the end of the line for this car when whatever it is finally goes out.


Quote
mrbigstuff
I know from rust. It really sucks. But what sucked more is getting the cv shaft boot all munched up and then not being able to extract it from the transmission. For days. And then having to get it flatbedded to the mechanic who could also not get it off ( but replaced the boot). To the tune of about $600.

I had to use a very large pry bar to separate the shaft from the transmission. That is pretty typical. Other model Subaru's had a small pin you have to drive out on the transmission end. Thankfully mine did not have that. I imagine the mechanic took the shaft apart and rebuilt it/replaced the boots while it was up on the lift? Yea, that would not be fun.

Quote
mattkime
Dear god that impact wrench makes a lot of torque

That is their lowest torque impact. Someone said they have Fuel one that makes 1200lbs for working on heavy machinery. This one did everything I needed it to.



C(-)ris
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: mikebw
Date: November 17, 2020 09:57AM
Boy that car sounds beat up. I think you went about 2 steps farther than I would have. Once I start breaking off bolts then it's time to call in a pro. But good for you, taking it on and teaching your daughter something along the way!
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: Bill in NC
Date: November 17, 2020 11:11AM
Quote
C(-)ris
Quote
Speedy
Whew! Good luck with the whine. Maybe live with it until it narrows itself down.

I have to take it in fo an alignment. Sadly no vehicle lift or alignment rack in my garage. Going to have them see if they can figure out what it is. I'm hopeful, but not optimistic that it is the passenger rear wheel bearing. It whines considerably louder when you let off the gas and coast in the 20-40mph range. Turning left or right makes no difference but it goes away as soon as you get on the gas. If it isn't a wheel bearing it will likely be the end of the line for this car when whatever it is finally goes out.


Quote
mrbigstuff
I know from rust. It really sucks. But what sucked more is getting the cv shaft boot all munched up and then not being able to extract it from the transmission. For days. And then having to get it flatbedded to the mechanic who could also not get it off ( but replaced the boot). To the tune of about $600.

I had to use a very large pry bar to separate the shaft from the transmission. That is pretty typical. Other model Subaru's had a small pin you have to drive out on the transmission end. Thankfully mine did not have that. I imagine the mechanic took the shaft apart and rebuilt it/replaced the boots while it was up on the lift? Yea, that would not be fun.

Quote
mattkime
Dear god that impact wrench makes a lot of torque

That is their lowest torque impact. Someone said they have Fuel one that makes 1200lbs for working on heavy machinery. This one did everything I needed it to.

Had to have 3 of 4 wheel bearing units replaced on my 2005 Subaru Legcy before it hit 100,000 miles.

Needs CV joint replacement (new shafts) at twice the rate of my other (FWD) vehicles.

I attribute the above to the additional wear & tear from a full-time (mechanically-coupled) AWD system.
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: Ammo
Date: November 17, 2020 11:16AM
C(-)rs I’m totally wowed by your know-how and mechanical skill! Left me wondering though - might it had been just as easy to purchase all of the parts required for a new car and assemble it yourself? (kidding).



Where is there dignity unless there is also honesty? - Cicero

Be kind, for everyone you meet is fighting a battle you know nothing about. —Wendy Mass
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: AllGold
Date: November 17, 2020 04:36PM
Impressive work.

However, for the whine, I'm certainly no expert but if hitting the gas or coasting changes the whine, I can't see how it would be a wheel bearing.





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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: C(-)ris
Date: November 17, 2020 08:52PM
Car is done. Was able to remove the tie rod end and put a new boot on the power steering rack. Also used some 3M rubber cement to seal up the pinhole in the ball joint. Will check back on it in a month or so. It can be visually inspected without taking anything off the car. If it still leaks Subaru sells a replacement cap I can put on.

Alignment appointment for 8am tomorrow morning, getting the three year deal since I'm sure there will be more suspension parts to replace soon.



C(-)ris
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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/17/2020 08:53PM by C(-)ris.
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: mikebw
Date: November 18, 2020 09:51AM
Quote
C(-)ris

Alignment appointment for 8am tomorrow morning, getting the three year deal since I'm sure there will be more suspension parts to replace soon.

Last time I did that I thought the same, and wound up getting rid of the car less than a year later. Oh well. Good luck!
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: Bill in NC
Date: November 18, 2020 06:34PM
Quote
AllGold
Impressive work.

However, for the whine, I'm certainly no expert but if hitting the gas or coasting changes the whine, I can't see how it would be a wheel bearing.

Whining sound that changes as you speed up or slow down is often the wheel bearing.

Subaru OEM wheel bearing units aren't known for their longevity...but 3rd party ones aren't much better.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/18/2020 06:35PM by Bill in NC.
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: N-OS X-tasy!
Date: November 18, 2020 07:01PM
Quote

Definitely not winning this week

Let's see if we can't change that: [www.youtube.com]



It is what it is.
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Re: Definitely not winning this week
Posted by: C(-)ris
Date: November 18, 2020 07:29PM
Back from the alignment shop. All good there. Drives nice and straight. They thought the sound was the rear differential but didn't have time to do more than a road test since it wasn't up on a lift to do the alignment and they were busy.

I'm going to wait it out till it gets bad enough to hear where it is coming from without a lift. Found a dozen used rear diffs on ebay for $75-$150. I'll go that route, they don't look difficult to install or remove and I can easily do it in my garage in a day barring any rusty bolt problems.



C(-)ris
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