I know, perhaps not the right board, but folks here seem particularly knowledgeable and helpful.

On the road, halfway through our trip, our truck (2019 Honda Ridgeline) has sudden partial loss of power, engine sounds different, has slight vibration, and engine light comes on. Engine temp fine, RPM okay. Feels like a hose popped off or I suddenly lost a cylinder. Fortunately, we are close to a relative’s house when it happens. I looked under hood - nothing obvious.

Call Honda roadside assistance which was actually pretty good although it took a little while for them to pick up. They send out a tow truck, will bring to nearby dealer, prolly won’t look at it til Monday/Tuesday. Aw, crap. Okay.

Tow truck shows up, asks if the car will start so I can turn it around. Yes. When I do, check engine light is off, car running normally. I shut it off, start again. No problem, now running normally.

I ask the tow truck driver - he says, it’s up to you, no big deal either way. I figure I don’t want to wait 2 days to have the local dealer tell me their scanner says nothing wrong as far they can tell.

Any ideas? We will drive around here a bit tomorrow to see if it returns before we hit the road and try to do the last 250 miles to home with our fingers crossed all the way…

Ignition coil/solenoid. DIY replaceable part.

[www.partsgeek.com]

The OBD port might tell you which cylinder was acting up.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2022 08:10PM by Acer.

Scan for codes with an ODB scanner. I thiiiink autozone might do that for free? Its possible that its something relatively simple such as needing new spark plugs. IMO based on what you've stated it could be a huge range of things.

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Quote
Acer
Ignition coil/solenoid. DIY replaceable part.

[www.partsgeek.com]

The OBD port might tell you which cylinder was acting up.

Don’t I need a reader for that?

Anyway, I also found this after some digging on Ridgeline boards:

Quote

I’ve had the same thing happen to me two or three times. Similar driving situation as well - highway cruising for multiple hours then turn off onto a side road and get the flashing light. Pulled over and shut it off each time - started up a minute later and it drove like nothing had happened. As others have said, seems to be related to the cylinder deactivation - seems like it struggles to fire them back up after long stints at highway speeds.

“Cylinder deactivation”? Anyway, if it comes back tomorrow, I suppose we can pull off for a few minutes, then restart?

I’ve experienced that, after a 3hr trip. And it got better too after stoping for a call.
My memory is not clear, but I swear it was fuel related, the gasoline filter maybe.
Good luck!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2022 09:15PM by rich in distress.

Codes are stored unless explicitly cleared with the scan tool. So even if the symptom disappeared the scanner will know what happened.

Regarding cyl deactivation, if it’s like the system on earlier 2WD Pilots it’s bad news. There’s a hack to deactivate the deactivate on those.

Anyway, once you get the code you can Google it and ask on a Ridgeline forum. There are cheap scanners and also the kind that use BT with your phone.

Quote
deckeda
Codes are stored unless explicitly cleared with the scan tool. So even if the symptom disappeared the scanner will know what happened.

Regarding cyl deactivation, if it’s like the system on earlier 2WD Pilots it’s bad news. There’s a hack to deactivate the deactivate on those.

Anyway, once you get the code you can Google it and ask on a Ridgeline forum. There are cheap scanners and also the kind that use BT with your phone.

There are Hard codes, and Soft codes. Soft codes go away if you disconnect battery for a while, or clear with a scanner designed to clear them. HARD codes can only be cleared with the proper scanner.

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I believe the Ridgeline had the same 3.5V6 as all other Hondas of that displacement? If so, that would be a problem that occurs across the brand and might ne common enough to be something searchable. But my immediate reaction is also fuel related.

Could be many things. Get a scanner and read codes. If key cycle helped reset it, it will probably recur...

I'd take it to the Honda dealer and let them read the code and fix it, if it's still under warranty. If it's not under warranty, then I'd do the Autozone thing so I'd know what it was and then go from there, depending on the cost.

Most any auto parts shop will read the code for you (Advanced Auto, Pep Boys, O'Reilly, etc.).

Thanks for all the tips! This board is great! And it sounds like I have an item for my birthday list (a scanner).

We’ll try to drive today and see how it goes.

Same (sort of) issue with an older Volvo. Kept everything up to date until that cursed check engine light showed up. Regular repair guy said ignore it, being a bit OCD I brought it to another who said sure. Two efforts and about 1K later he still hadn't quieted the "fix me" alert so went home and the guy* I trust said "I can't read it" - go to Volvo.

Local Volvo dealer (via robo scheduling) said fine - first available for you is six weeks from today but do it quick since we have trouble keeping help and it will cost you $250 to walk in the door. That fee wont be applied to any repairs but remember "we love you".

Check engine light is still on and said POS is still moving closer and closer to the nearest quarry.

*He three times replaced a tension regulator part that failed and wouldn't on any of those replacements accept payment for the extra work the failed OEM part entailed. My understanding is that this is a big job

I said what I said (ignition coil) because I've had a similar issue with check engine lights and misfiring on three vehicles, all Toyotas it happens. YMMV.

I'm fighting with a check engine light now. The code says effectively "something with the catalytic convertor." Replacing the cat often helps...but not always.

Spend $30 on a OBDII Code reader. Find Codes. Search Google for what code means. If its a misfire in a cylinder, could easily be the coil or coils.

Quote
RgrF
Same (sort of) issue with an older Volvo. Kept everything up to date until that cursed check engine light showed up. Regular repair guy said ignore it, being a bit OCD I brought it to another who said sure. Two efforts and about 1K later he still hadn't quieted the "fix me" alert so went home and the guy* I trust said "I can't read it" - go to Volvo.

Local Volvo dealer (via robo scheduling) said fine - first available for you is six weeks from today but do it quick since we have trouble keeping help and it will cost you $250 to walk in the door. That fee wont be applied to any repairs but remember "we love you".

Check engine light is still on and said POS is still moving closer and closer to the nearest quarry.

*He three times replaced a tension regulator part that failed and wouldn't on any of those replacements accept payment for the extra work the failed OEM part entailed. My understanding is that this is a big job

Did you find out what code is triggering the cel?

So, just a little follow up - we made the ~250 mi last leg today without a hitch or a warning light.

Gonna call the dealership where we got it tomorrow morning and get it in while it’s still in warranty.

IF: I'd take it to the Honda dealer and let them read the code and fix it, if it's still under warranty.

THEN: Gonna call the dealership where we got it tomorrow morning and get it in while it’s still in warranty.

There are some scanner codes that are proprietary to the manufacturer, and not available to retailers or even third-party mechanics.

If there's a code found but not defined, it may take an online search to see if someone somewhere has found the code's story.

So a trip to the dealer is the best option, at this time.

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