Well, shed has been neglected but I'm back on the ball now!

I need to roof the sucker but will probably just add the substrate if I can get away with it over winter (Boston area) and I need to clad the sides with the white pine (stained) siding that is prepped to go on.

?s- what kind of roofing substrate will last for a few months through the winter (roof is 1/2" ply) while i decide on a final roofing material and

what kind of nail do I use in this T/G pine siding so as not to bust it up but have it firmly set against the plywood? (with Tyvek on top of the ply)

thanks

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Hurts like a bastid...

As far as the roof you could run a couple courses of roofing felt (aka tar paper) or cheap roll roofing.

If you do the tar paper you should probably use the roofing nails with the plastic buttons
because those nor'easters will rip it right off if just stapled. You could also buy a couple of
cheap tarps and nail them down with wood strips (cheap furring strips)

As far as the T&G siding - is it real T&G or is it the 4x8 panels with the T&G design ?

True T&G is usualy nailed in the TONGUE with a finish nail or could be face nailed with a
siding nail (or clapboard nail) They are galvanized ring shank nails with a flat tip so they
will not rust and the flat point will keep from splitting the board. A

All else fails a galvanized finish nail and blunt the point so it doesn't split the board.

If it is the sheet goods (4x8) use a finish nail or an air stapler is handy. My bro-in-law and I built
a shed for him last fall and we used a 1" staple to side it ( 3/8" panel to 3/4" OSB )

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2007 10:04PM by lafinfil.

'fil, it is real T/G siding. the tongue is pretty small, though (narrow) so i don't know how well it will grab. i guess i'll find out tomorrow (after i buy some nails).

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Hurts like a bastid...

Sorry - I mis-wrote nail it through the tongue (thinking backwards tonight)

You can also face nail it but nail back from the groove so you don't break it.

If you can't find siding nails and are using a regular point then flip the nail over and tap the point
with your hammer to blunt it. That will keep it from splitting the board.

Here's a link [www.cedar-siding.org]

also make sure nail is a ring shank and it's galvanized

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2007 10:01PM by lafinfil.

30 LB felt with plenty of nails. Furring strips will greatly increase durability. Galvanized finnish nails will work because they will be nailed on an angle. If you are worried about damaging the surface you could rent an air nailer. It will make short work of the nailing and after a few practice shots you should be able to nail it every time. Pre-finished tongue and groove siding should not be surface nailed. Make sure you get Galvanized nails for gun or hand nailing. If you hand nail, you nail on an angle into tongue so it won't show when next board goes up. You might also need a good nail set to get the head deep enough so next board will fit tight.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2007 10:49PM by slbett.

;>)

>
> If you are worried about damaging the surface you could rent an air nailer.
> It will make short work of the nailing
>

Oh, he's really not in a hurry

: -D

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Most anything you put on the roof will have to be ripped off when it comes time to actually roof it, save one thing - ice and water shield. I would either tarp it for the winter or just shingle it now. How big is this shed?

grrrrr...







(but the ole coot is right....)

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Hurts like a bastid...

: -D

Hey if you gave me some notice I could have been available to help tomorrow ...

and I'm not THAT ole !

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Quote
slbett
Galvanized finnish nails will work because they will be nailed on an angle..

I am in agreement with everything you said except your choice in nails. I'm an American, and dammit, I'm a gonna use American nails!

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Mr. Lahey: A lot of people, don’t know how to drink. They drink against the grain of the liquor. And when you drink against the grain of the liquor? You lose.

Randy: What the @#$%& are you talking about?

Been there, done that.

To make a long story short:
Shingle it NOW! Hire a handyman to help you.
Do not use 3-tab, upgrade to the next level (composite I think).
Do peel the plastic strip off each shingle.
Do use roofing tar to glue the together. Make sure you start with warm tar.

Not the answer you wanted.
Sorry.

BIG BLUE TARP!

Quote
M>B>
BIG BLUE TARP!

That's what I was thinking. They do make those cheap traps in brown now if the color of
blue offends thy neighbors. Tar paper isn't going to last long.

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Grateful11

Quote
Rick-o

Quote
slbett
Galvanized finnish nails will work because they will be nailed on an angle..

I am in agreement with everything you said except your choice in nails. I'm an American, and dammit, I'm a gonna use American nails!

American made nails:

[www.redbrand.com]

[www.mazenails.com]

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Grateful11

I have to disagree with will2000. A step up to architectural or composite shingles is okay, but do NOT pull the plastic strip off the shingles and do NOT use tar - for anything on a roof.

Where are you located mrbigstuff?

I agree with wolf: I've helped roof many houses in the past and was always told to never pull
off the plastic strip.

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Grateful11

Quote
wolfcry911
I have to disagree with will2000. A step up to architectural or composite shingles is okay, but do NOT pull the plastic strip off the shingles and do NOT use tar - for anything on a roof.

Where are you located mrbigstuff?

Boston area, so i expect to have snow and rain and wind hit this thing pretty soon. in fact, i should be out there right now putting up the shingles, but it's a long story....

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Hurts like a bastid...

PM me. I'm north of Boston myself.

In the summer, you can leave the strip on. It is a self-sealing heat activated tar strip, and it can seal through the plastic strip. However when it is cold it will not seal. One little wind storm and you'll have repairs on your hand.